If you’re looking for a quick ‘n’ easy weekend getaway that won’t break the bank, then Nantes, France, is the destination for you. And now’s the time to go for maximum value and entertainment. Why? Because until the 8th September the city is hosting its annual “Le Voyage a Nantes”, a collection of artworks in public spaces, large-scale exhibitions and special events.
Better still, it’s just a short 45 minute flight from London Gatwick and once you’ve landed all your planning can be done using the amazing [and great value] Nantes Pass, which gives you free access to 50 attractions including museums, galleries and boat rides, along with two airport transfers and public transport in the city.
The pass is available online for 24, 48 and 72 hour durations. There’s even a week-long option but for a weekend jaunt that 48 hour pass is just the ticket.
Where to stay in Nantes
During my trip to Nantes I stayed in the Okko Hotel, which was clean, comfy, affordable and very well located.
Turn the corner down the Rue du Chateau, just a minute’s walk from the hotel, and you’ll be in the centre of some bustling pubs and bars, along with some great restaurants. I can thoroughly recommend Le Couscoussier – the food was tasty and the service was friendly.
The Okko Hotel is also just a couple of minutes from the Château des ducs de Bretagne, a must-see moated castle that contains an exhibition telling the story of the city’s development. The Nantes Pass includes a free audio guide, which is a great bonus.
The section on slavery – the city’s darkest past – is really well handled, as is the history of Nantes during WWII. Neither make for comfortable reading but the presentations are really informative. If you’re a history buff this is a must-see destination.
Jardin Des Plantes is a lovely free green space, complete with greenhouses, waterfowl, formal beds and L’Homme de Bois, a colossal wooden figure that drips water, which supports the growth of moss and ferns across its surface. The gardens are the ideal location to take a break and enjoy a small slice of urban nature.
Another massive figure, L’Enfant Hybridus, is 5 metres of hybrid human-plant by the Palace Royal. It’s a lot of fun and can be visited on the way to or from the Passage Pommeraye, a small 19th Century shopping arcade running between Santeuil and de la Fosse.
In 1976, the gallery was recognised as a historic monument thanks to its impressive architecture. Go and see it – you’ll not be disappointed.
Museums and galleries in Nantes
The Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle is a small but perfectly formed space that contains some gems and treasures. It’s not a long visit but I especially liked the display of fossils and minerals, including a massive meteorite fragment and a clutch of dinosaur eggs. The whale skeleton upstairs makes quite a statement, too!
Provincial art galleries can be second rate and just a bit disappointing. The Musée d’arts de Nantes is none of that. Founded in 1801, it is one of the few French museums to add pieces by living artists to its collections. It’s also the home of some great works from the masters, including an outstanding Kandinsky and some of Monet’s water lilies.
The work of Pierrick Sorin features during Le Voyage a Nantes and it was a lot of mixed media fun. I especially liked the holographic projections of people into miniature settings, including two men attempting to swim in a fish tank, complete with real goldfish.
The main attraction
Nantes used to be a centre of ship building but when the shipyards closed on the island in the river Loire – one of the 11 districts of the city – much of the infrastructure was left to rust.
Today things are very different. There’s a small, free museum about the island’s shipping past, which isn’t hugely interesting if I’m honest, but that’s not why people make their way here: the big attraction is Les Machines de l’île.
Words can’t fully describe just how mad and how much fun it is. It’s basically a collection of massive animatronic beasts but that really doesn’t scratch the surface. It’s a steampunk zoo, I suppose, but even that doesn’t come close to capturing the atmosphere of the place.
Big metal replicas of real animals – and some imaginary ones, too – are brought to life through the use of pistons, wires and a touch of IT. And you can ride in them, too! If you’ve ever fancied getting a lift in the world’s biggest robot elephant you’ve come to the right place. The attraction is magical – it’s worth the trip to Nantes in itself.
Other Nantes attractions
If you’ve still got some time on your hands, dig out your Nantes Pass and look at what’s available nearby. A river cruise, perhaps, or a visit to the Jules Verne Museum might take your fancy, but be warned it’s only in French. There’s a planetarium nearby but that’s predominantly for the local children.
You could take the tourist train or download a free walking audio tour if you wanted to capture a little more of Nantes’ flavours before heading home. Both are doubtless great although I ran out of time to sample either.
The city’s cathedral is currently only viewable from outside – war damage and a more recent fire have destroyed parts of the structure and rendered it unsafe. The good news is that it’s being rebuilt and it will clearly be very impressive when it’s finished. For the time being, sit yourself down in the Irish pub across the square from its imposing frontage and order a cold beer. You’ll have earned it after all your activities.
Réservez maintenant et profitez de la ville
Nantes was full of wonderful surprises and the city pass makes getting around so easy. I can’t recommend it enough… after all, where else will you get the change to ride in a giant metal ant?
If you’re reading this after September 8th don’t panic, “Le Voyage a Nantes” is an annual affair, so you could always hold out for it’s return next Spring!
