Most of the year I’m pretty independent when it comes to travel – I’ll book the flights, hotels, transport and excursions all by myself. However, once in a while it’s nice to have the hassle handled by someone else. And so, with a week off work over Christmas, I decided to book some ‘lazy travel’ and cruise down the Nile during the festive period with pretty much everything arranged.
I was slightly wary, if I’m honest, as I’d never been on an all-inclusive river cruise before but the price being offered by easyJet was too good to refuse. So I headed off for a week of culture and sunshine with mixed expectations. If nothing else, I knew I’d get to see some amazing ancient sites.
The flight out to Luxor was fine, the connection from the airport to the boat (the Crown Empress) was seamless, the check-in was slightly haphazard but the confusion about my booking was sorted out in short order. Best of all, my cabin was comfy and clean, with a great river view – my stay in Egypt was off to a solid start. The one downside – the wifi was as reliable a short length of soggy string. Oh well…
Egyptian wine might be more suitable as a cleaning fluid than a drink but the food on the boat was simply outstanding. We’ve all encountered the dodgy buffet at some point but this was quite the reverse. I could have eaten the salads every day – I pretty much did – they were so tasty. The freshly made falafel was also brilliant.
Out and about
There were daily trips out to see ancient sites as we traversed the Nile from Luxor to Aswan and back. Some of the sites I’d seen on previous visits but they were enlivened by our guide, Bassem (which literally translates as Smiley), who was a trained historian and tour guide of extraordinary knowledge and enthusiasm. His ability to read hieroglyphics was a real bonus.
The first excursion was to the Valley of the Kings, the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon. I’d seen all three before but Bassem’s familiarity with them – and their surroundings – added fascinating detail, which brought them to life. I immediately knew that my choice of Christmas getaway was going to deliver. Little did I know how good it would actually get.
Day two was a morning excursion to Edfu, a temple built during the Greek Ptolemaic reign. It’s a truly impressive construction, despite being partly defaced by Copts, who attempted to remove what they considered to be pagan imagery. Its archaeological importance [it was the site of several festivals dedicated to the sky Horus] and good state of preservation mean it’s a popular destination for tourists.
Dam and double dam
We headed out on day three down to the Aswan dam and the temple of Philae. The dam, which was completed in 1970 after a ten-year build, wasn’t the first dam across the Nile. However, unlike its predecessor, its completion finally helped regulate the annual floods as well as generate a large quantity of the country’s hydroelectric power. The mighty structure was partly funded by Russia, which also provided the engineering expertise. There’s a slightly incongruous monument to commemorate its completion.
The resulting lake behind the damn, Lake Nasser, flooded an area rich with antiquity so a large number of temples were relocated – an international enterprise that saved many important structures, including the temple of Philae. Getting across to its new island home required a river taxi – an undertaking that resembled a chaotic boat race. It was a lot of run.
What seems likely is that Philae was one of the last outposts of the ancient Egyptian religion. When the final high priest of the complex converted to Christianity, he brought down the curtain on a centuries old belief system. Hieroglyphs stopped being used and within a generation their meaning was lost.
A massive symbol of power
The trip to Abu Simbel was optional but there was no way I was going to miss it. Ever since I first saw picture of the temple complex as a child I’d wanted to go. And it didn’t disappoint.
The twin temples, which were relocated in their entirety in 1968 to avoid them being submerged by Lake Nasser, were constructed during the reign of Ramesses II. He was responsible for an extensive building programme throughout Egypt, but nothing compares with Abu Simbel.
The sheer size of the temples is a political statement in stone – it told the Nubians to the south that their Egyptian masters were capable of superhuman feats of engineering and not to be crossed. To hammer home the point, the main temple shows Ramesses II beating Nubian prisoners, who are lined up in a frieze outside the temple’s entrance.
Access to Abu Simbel needs additional paperwork and permits, due to its proximity to the border with Sudan, a country engulfed by political turmoil. I was happy to make the trip but others might be more wary.
Sipping cocktails with Agatha Christie
On the fifth day, which was spent moored in Aswan I decided to head out on my own and visit the Old Cataract Hotel, which was made famous by its guests. Both Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie were regular visitors and it’s easy to see the appeal. It drips with old school charm and the view from its rear gardens across to Elephantine Island is picture perfect. I sipped my cocktail and soaked up the atmosphere.
Be warned, the walk along the bank of the Nile towards the hotel was ‘irksome’. I was beset by locals attempting to sell me guided tours, trips on boats and visits to goodness knows where. It tested my patience, and although I never felt threatened by the amount of unwanted attention, others might find it off-putting, especially female travellers.
A nighttime visit
Kom Ombo Temple gets lit up at night so after a day sitting on deck with a coffee and a book we were once again escorted by Bassem off the boat for a little evening adventure. The site was crowded and so was the river – ships were moored three, four and five deep, resulting in my party crossing through several vessels before finally hitting the shore.
The temple is a double structure, dedicated to both the crocodile god Sobek, god of fertility and creator of the world, and the falcon god Haroeris, a manifestation of Horus. It was worth the trek, despite the throng, although the milling groups of tourists did get annoying at times. The adjoining museum contains some mummified crocodiles and is well worth a quick visit.
Karnak and Luxor
The final full day included a visit to Karnak and the temple at Luxor. Both are really impressive – the perfect end to a great week of exploration and ancient culture. The Karnak complex contains a mix of temples and obelisks, including one erected by Queen Hatshepsut, which is the largest on the site.
Her successor, Thutmose III, hated her so much he had the obelisk bricked up, which has resulted in its near perfect preservation. I suspect the irony wouldn’t have been lost on the queen, whose tenure as pharaoh was specifically designed to show that a woman could rule as well, or better, than a man.
In antiquity, the complex was linked by a road lined with Sphinx to the temple at Luxor – a route that is to be excavated and reinstated. For the time being, visitors need to use a modern road between the two rather than walk the path taken by the pharaohs and high priests.
The temple complex at Luxor – ancient Thebes – is a palimpsest of the country’s religious journey. Built for the worship of the goddess Mut, it has also operated as a Christian church and a Mosque, which is still in use today. It therefore seemed like an ideal finale to what had been a truly excellent week.
Would I cruise again?
I was initially wary about an all-inclusive cruise down the Nile but it turned out to be just what I wanted. The planned excursions were all very good, there was time to wander off on my own, the food was excellent, our resident guide was exemplary and the crew of the Crown Empress were friendly and helpful. I honestly couldn’t have asked for more for the money… aside from better wifi. It really was shocking.
When to go on a Nile cruise?
I’d initially thought that a visit over Christmas might be quiet but I was told that if you want to avoid the crowds it’s best to book during the first three week of December. If you’re thinking about a Nile cruise, now you know when to go.
Finally, I should warn you about Luxor airport – the home of senseless bureaucracy. My passport was stamped and then immediately checked… and checked again. I was patted down twice, my case was searched twice and my boarding card was checked, stamped and checked again. Facilities at the airport are minimal, too, making the whole experience mildly frustrating.
However, even an army of petty passport jobsworths couldn’t dent my enjoyment. I had a fabulous time – it was the best Christmas present to myself I could have organised. Egypt – I will be back.
