Madrid is a fabulous city – there’s so much to see and do, eat and drink, explore and enjoy. It’s a feast for the senses, soaked in history and overflowing with museums. It’s also an excellent base for wider travels thanks to its brilliant rail connections. However, there are few top tips you’ll need to know before you set off on your day trips from Madrid.
Spain by train
Spain’s capital sits at the heart of a national rail network that reaches into the four corners of the country. However, for my visit I decided to limit my out-of-town treks to just two destinations – both manageable as day trips. I’d checked my train times – out and back – and planned out my itineraries. So far, so good…
However, if you’re going to buy a train ticket you need either an ID card or passport! Yup, it’s a little like taking a plane. There are baggage checks, your ticket looks like a boarding card (complete with seat number) and people queue at mainline stations like they’re at a departure gate.
The ticket machines are also unnecessarily complex, which adds hassle, so allow plenty of time before your train. And finally, there are two mainline station in Madrid – some of your journeys may depart from one but return to the other – be warned.
First stop, Toledo
I’d been meaning to visit Toledo for quite a while – I’d heard about its history, its wonderful setting in the crook of a river and its magnificent architecture. It didn’t disappoint, either.
Toledo’s station is quite a distance from town so I’d planned on getting a taxi. As it turned out, a bus tour company runs a service that coincides with train arrivals and it’s really worth getting a ticket.
First, it’s cheaper than a taxi, second your ticket is a return, and third, the route it takes gives you some splendid views across the river.
Toledo is known as the “City of the Three Cultures” because of the influences of Christianity, Islam and Judaism, which are carved into its silhouette.
The town has two ancient synagogues – a third of the country’s total from antiquity – both of which can be visited.
There’s also the Mosque of Cristo de la Luz, which is today a Catholic chapel. It’s one of ten that existed in the city during the Moorish period.
The Catedral Primada sits at the very heart of the town – a splendid example of Gothic architecture bedecked with gold and lined with the types of icons and iconography you’d expect for such an imposing building. This is Catholicism writ large – saints suffer, angels descend and the Madonna bends her head, eyes down, in countless depictions.
You could become inured to this explosion of virtuous misery – every church in Spain features it – but the Catedral Primada sets a very high standard. Even the most ardent atheist will be impressed.
Other highlights include the best ice cream I’ve ever had and some wonderful winding alleyways that loop back and overlap to create a warren of tight passageways ready to confuse the unwary traveller.
Sadly, I didn’t get to see the Museo de la Espana Magica, a history of cultural superstitions housed in an Islamic cave dwelling from the 10th Century. It looks like it would have been fun, though. Maybe next time.
After all that excitement, I jumped on the tourist bus back to the station, had my luggage scanned again, and made my way home in a clean, comfy air conditioned train.
Day two, Cuenca
I like a small hill town so Cuenca was a must-see visit. Its old station, which was conveniently situated in the centre of town, has recently been replaced by a splendid new one… a bus or taxi ride away.
It’s huge – really massive – and plonked in a spectacularly daft location, so my day in Cuenca started with a taxi, which was actually pretty sensible as it turned out. It dropped me off at the San Pablo Bridge, the most spectacular way to enter the town and a walk that might otherwise have done me in!
Make no mistake, the old centre of Cuenca is a long, long way up. But the views as you ascend from the San Pablo Bridge are spectacular.
En route I stopped off to see the Cuenca Cathedral, a surprisingly subdued interior housed behind an elaborate Gothic exterior, one of the earliest examples in Spain, no less.
The walk back down to the modern town below was very pleasant but it soon dawned on me that I’d need a taxi back to the station and I had no idea where I’d find one. I didn’t have time to visit the local dinosaur museum – which looked like it was amazing – so I went in search of Cuenca’s taxi rank.
Google Maps came to my rescue and before you could say “station, please” I’d found the town’s only working taxi driver. My bag was x-rayed again before boarding my return train… an end to a day of scenic views and arching calf muscles.
Day trips from Madrid – much more to see
My time ran out and I headed home certain that I’d be back for more Spanish train adventures, this time prepared with my passport.
Unlike Italy, where the trains are pretty cheap, Spain’s rail network is quite pricey so I’d recommend booking in advance to access the best prices. You can print out your tickets at the station with your booking number, which saves you time, too.
