Salerno hadn’t been on my list of ‘get away’ weekends, despite my love of all things Italian. And then easyJet added it to its selection of destinations. And with two clicks of the mouse I was off… on what turned out to be a really good three-day break. There’s nothing like finding a new destination and there’s nothing quite like Salerno, as I soon discovered.
Salerno is an ancient city in Campania, southwest Italy, down along the coast from Amalfi. It’s a mix of modernity and history – part high class shopping, part unfeigned verismo. Its intermingling of ancient and modern combine seamlessly into a something characteristically Italian – a pragmatic blend of influences that sits at the heart of the authentic Italia. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
My arrival into Salerno
Salerno airport is very new indeed and I couldn’t find out much information about how to get from it into town. There is a bus timetable but it didn’t seem to make much sense. In the end, you can forget about the scheduled departures – the bus is held until the arriving plane has disembarked. Five euros later and I was on my way. The return journeys from Salerno seem to run roughly to schedule, though.
I was staying at the Hotel Plaza, which was right next to the bus terminal and railway station – a handy spot and way quieter than I’d expected given its location. The hotel staff were really helpful – I got a late checkout at no additional cost, which was nice! Decent aircon, stable wifi and a comfy bed; I’ll call that a win.
A warm reception
As soon as my bags were dumped I pulled on my shorts – it was a toasty 32 degrees outside – and set off to explore. The seafront isn’t much to write home about, to be honest, but two streets back and you’re in the thick of it. Shops, bars, cafes and restaurants all spill out onto the pavement ready to waylay the unwary.
My first stop was the old town, which – barring the odd satellite dish and modern awning – looks like it would have done more than 100 years ago. Much of it is way older, in fact. Its winding alleyways don’t seem to lead anywhere in particular but they are very atmospheric and there are plenty of places to stop and cool down.
On the edge of the old town is some simple but effective street art called “Muri d’autore”, which was started as a tribute to the local poet, Alfonso Gatto. The initiative has since turned into an open-air gallery that aims to re-energise some of the more marginalised areas of the city.
A three-in-one ticket
Once I’d got my bearings I headed over to the Chiesa di San Giorgio, a church with a floor covered with majolica tiles decorated with acanthus leaves. But it’s when you look up you really discover its charms – a single cross nave covered by a completely frescoed barrel vaulted ceiling. The crypt is equally as vibrant, which rather took me by surprise.
My ticket to the church of St George also granted me access to the Cathedral of San Matteo, a beautiful building that’s far more subdued that many of the country’s major churches. In fact, it’s really rather modest in many respects, which lends it a special air of tranquillity. It, too, has a wonderful crypt, flooded with light and decked with beautiful tiles.
The third and final stop on my ticket was the diocesan museum, which rounded things off very nicely. I especially liked the medieval carved ivories. All three locations are within a short walk of each other. You might also squeeze in a visit to the archaeological museum, which is free and worth a few minutes of your time if you’re passing. It’s a modest display but the bronze head of Apollo is rather splendid.
Out on a boat trip
Day two and I was heading for the harbour to catch a boat to Amalfi. The queuing at the quay was a little haphazard but everything worked out fine, as is often the case in Italy. And what a pleasant voyage it was. Out at sea with a cool breeze made the rising mercury seem far less draining, although once ashore the heat hit me like a wall. I honest think 36 degrees isn’t the ideal temperature for exploring a town on a hill. Thank goodness for the amazing lemon ice cream.
Amalfi is a major tourist draw and it’s easy to see why. It’s simply stunning, if a little crowded at peak season. However, even the heat and the swelling throng of tourists couldn’t dampen the impact of the Duomo di Sant’Andrea. It’s another understated cathedral – at least by Italian standards – and once again the effect is really captivating.
It’s a glorious mix of Arab, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements and it, too, boasts a crypt full of light and patterned tiles. I soaked up the cool air and headed back into the street in pursuit of a cold beer and a quiet corner. I found the beer.
We’re off to ancient… Greece?
Well, not exactly… but it’s day three and we’re off to Paestum, a major Greek city in Magna Graecia, the Greek-speaking part of Italy, built around 600 BC. The site is rightly famous for its ruins, which aren’t actually very ruined. In fact, the site contains three of the best preserved Greek temples anywhere in the world. And they’re magnificent, too!
It’s easy to follow the street plans and city walls, as well as the city’s old political forum, which the Romans later buried as they had no use for it. There’s also a nearby museum, which is small but perfectly formed and well worth 45 minutes of your time.
Getting to Paestum should have been easy – a simple 30 minute train ride from Salerno, but the ticket machine said ‘no’, the train was full! So I went to the ticket counter and tried again, only to be told “the train is full”… at which point I was offered a ticket. “You’ll have to stand,” I was told. I got a seat.
Food ‘n’ drink
Italy always delivers at mealtimes and Salerno was no exception. I especially liked the pizzas at Pizzeria Errico Porzio Salerno – it doesn’t look much but it really serves great food – but the standout restaurant was Al Dente, which was truly out of this world. It’s not expensive but any means and the food is sensational. The Bufalotta Bruschette was the best bread ‘n’ cheese imaginable… and then some! My Scarpariello pasta was hard to top, too.
All’aeroporto
All good things come to an end so it was back home for me; the bus back to the airport was nearly on time (just 10 minutes late), which wasn’t a problem. Be warned, though… Salerno airport is tiny. The duty free shop is a small table that looks like a church fete bring ‘n’ buy! The drink machines also didn’t like either of by debit cards and there was no café after you’ve gone through passport control. Consider yourself warned.
Thanks easyJet for supplying another great weekend break from Gatwick.
